18 March 2017
Because 3D printing takes a while, I’ve been told to do my printing in off-peak hours by the boss (my wife). This means starting after 9pm. As I only have a few more pieces to go, this means a whole nighter for me. I’m not complaining as I had a kip during the day so should be able to pass the night away painting up the FoGN counters and reviewing the draft version of FoGB version 2 which I received this morning from one of the redesigners.
FoGN counters update
Missing the CMT to Advance counter (forgot to draw it up). But everything else is there. Got the two styles side by side.
Got two quick designs for these FoGN markers I’m printing.
The ones on the left are basic writing type while the design on the right uses geometric shapes with single letter signifying action. Both should compliment the charge counters (see post below) already done.
To break the routine, I started printing up some charge markers for my Napoleonics, primarily for FoGN. Nice start.
Toying with an idea to make them distinctive. Will post later how that idea went.
15 March 2017
Printing is slow. Changed the reel finally today. There is a noticeable difference in the quality of the replacement filament (Verbatim, 1.75mm, 1 kg), as seen in the pics below. The octagon squad station printed out well.
Done with the original product filament. It is quite satiny in look and texture, as opposed to the replacement reel (below) which looks more matt but a lot clearer in detail (especially in photos).
The squad station. Loving the detail of the print job.
…and the rest of what’s been printed thus far in two days; everything is interchangeable with the lengths and intersections; the end pieces are the only fixed elements but I’ve made sure they’re duplicate in reverse mode.
Time is the big problem with these printouts. That and spending a few minutes ensuring the raft is secure, otherwise you end up with the flower piece (as in last post). I’m still trying to master the 3D printer’s functions.
Got a few more pieces to print out before I start on the display board. This is the configuration I’ve initially settled on. Initially…
No roofs shown in the layout but that because I haven’t settled on a suitable design for both the squad station and the tower. I haven’t yet settled on the board design either but there will be a lot of battle damage – ruins, deep craters, etc. I’ve design the pieces to be interchangeable so that any configuration can be created.
13 March 2017
The printed item that went wild. Didn’t notice it until it had finished printing.
The software I’m using to print the files keeps returning the warning that there is not enough filament. The proof is in the pudding, I guess.
There is more than enough to resume printing, so I’ll just ignore the message because it did print out a piece (before it returned the mess in the first photo shown) without any problems.
Got my two 1kg reels of ABS filament and the trench components are ready to go; only the roof for the octagon bastion needs fixing up in Sketch Up.
Learned something new though from the problem. Will test it out tomorrow before I say anything openly.
10 March 2017
The filament arrived several days ago but I’ve been distracted with a painting project that needs completing before the weekend. Will fire up the reel next week and resume printing out the components of the trenching system. Then I will start on the battle board.
3 March 2017
After receiving some feedback on the cost towards moulds and casting resins on WAU forum, and had a quick squiz at the resin casting forum site suggested one of the Melbourne lads, I’ve decided to just continue to 3D print the items. I know the quality and I reckon I should churn the entire project out in around five working days.
I’ve also done some redesign to make everything fit this time (unlike what’s shown in the example below of an earlier configuration I was playing around with. Nothing fits quite that well as you can readily see).
I won’t be showing any pics of the final work until it’s all done up on a decent battle board. The cost? Around fifty dollars to produce around twenty pieces, of similar size to the picture below. And it will take just over 500 grams for the lot which will also include a watch tower! Cheers.
I hope to make the designs (STL files) available for cost once I’ve completed the project. It will include the weight for each individual piece that will enable anyone to manufacture individual configurations to suit. I hope to add further elements to this series, which I will call Bastion.
UPDATE: 3D PRINTING TODAY
Printed out something quick and easy today – an obelisk and a guard hut and barrier combo.
Some 20mm figures for contrast and size comparison. Pleased with it. This will feature as part of my new LOC stand for my Wurttemburgers (FoGN).
The barrier was too long and too narrow. Will trim it down or replace it altogether. These two pieces are for my Kelly’s Heroes battle board (yes, still working on it).
Querying resin cast and moulding because 3D printing takes time to produce. Put the question to the gaming community on the local gaming forum site. The advice received has certainly given me considerable food for thought. Not sure if it’s done anything other than confirm my own thoughts. The issue is trying to find a reasonable balance between 3D printing and resin casting that will facilitate completing this project on time. One of the gamers who’s done resin casting before and showcased some of his work gave a reasonably good summary of the issues regarding resin casting over 3D printing.
I may decide to continue to use my 3D printer to produce all of the various modular pieces before I make a final decision. And right now, I have a lot of tidying up of the designs.
28 February 2017
I’m never one to hoard my ideas because to create anything you have to have references to sources outside of yourself. All you’re doing is merely offering your own creative interpretation of what’s already out there. Enough ranting.
Some close ups of a couple of the modules: the blockhouse/hold point/bunker and the double bastion strongpoint.
The octagon-shaped “hold bay” or blockhouse that can serve as a squad base. The viewports are shown here with the roof removed. The twin gun is an example of how to add heavy support weaponry onto the octagon, as shown above. As you can see you can have up to six (6) chevron-type positions.
The access to “the lower levels” is shown next to the entry. A clever approach to bunking as well as providing underground tunnelling between blockhouses/bunker.
The same octagon with the roof added. This will be a separate piece that will fit into the chevron-looking slots. I’m making it high enough to hold individual figures within comfortably. It now is a blockhouse or simple bunkers.
The double bastion strongpoint. Duplicated the original; took off the back of the duplicate while removing most of the original just keeping the face; and then simply combined the two.
Forgot to add these two: one shows the second piece 3D printed. Lots of modifying to make it uniform. The second shows the surface of the print on the floor of the “trench” system.
The second piece printed showed how much I’ve deviated from the original design – the bastion strongpoint.
A close up view of the texture generated from the printing. It’s painted over in a metallic brown (Tin). It differs from the top of the crenallate which is much smoother.
27 February 2017
Printed another section of this trench system today to compare it to the original. Glad I did as some minor design modification is in order. Then tonight I figured to see how the trench system will work in a random configuration using all the pieces I’m designing. Result below:
There is no real design to the layout apart from the following:
- the crenellations generally indicate the direction from where the perceived threat issues from;
- the rounded bays serve as squad-level stronghold and quarters, or serve as extra gun points or headquarters;
- each of these hold points contains a doorway that leads downward;
- these bays hold roughly combat squad-level units but can cater up to tactical squad size;
- the bastions have several roles from being gun emplacements, lookout/sentry posts, command stands, etc.
- the main aim to make them modular and therefore any configuration can be had.
Hopefully, the next few days will see the design refined further so I can retail these for some return. If this continues, next step will be reproducing these modules using resin casting.
26 February 2017
Tonight I finally printed out the design. Took over five (5) hours but in the end it’s worth it. This is a modular system.
How it looks on the 3D printer display. Print area is quite small, hence the modular aspect.
After trimming off the raft elements, voila!
The 40K figures fit in nicely.
The only downside, apart from the time it’s taken, is the sensor mast snapped when I was cleaning it up. Superglue helps. Pleased with the embossed emblems but may leave them off as GW supply enough emblem bits that can be attached.
Quick paint job just for viewing.
25 February 2017
Late last year the gaming club I frequent lost some of its terrain. It happened over one of the many local school holiday periods. Our club secretary was taking stocktake for an upcoming event and that’s when he found that several storage boxes full of gaming terrain (primarily for Warhammer) had gone “walkabout”. No boards or trestle tables were taken — just the gaming terrain.
A couple of weeks ago, I decided to make some replacement pieces. I thought it fun to utilise the 3D printer I bought a few years back. Having recently printed out a working part for a former work colleague, I figured why not use it instead of allowing it to sit idle.
For design, I’m borrowing an idea suggested by a noted gamer from NZ, Pete Dunn. His idea was a artificial trench system (possibly metallic). I’m borrowing the idea in my interpretation of it.
I’m using Sketch Up, a simple design program by Trimble. It’s free to download for a trial period, but if you want to use the full program, you will need to pay the other components of the package. I already have a license for an earlier version and I’m already familiar with it as I’ve used it for a number of years.
Sketch Up is quick but it can also be quite frustrating to use. The current version I’m using — 17 — is able to fix some of the problems like double lines, non-connecting faces that often crops up in my works. The frustration part often comes in when saving the job and it keeps returning errors. Version 17 seems to have fixed that part. Which is a good thing if you’re like me someone who only has a basic knowledge to get by with simple clunky designs but who definitely needs help with more articulate works.
This piece is a strong point within a trench system that I will eventually print out as part of my contribution to the replacement goal. This strongpoint will allow a gun emplacement installed or it can serve as a central command post within the trench network.
A side view. I’ve included a raised hard stand within the trench system so a figure can stand to sight through the embrasures. I’ve done a few embossed emblems that’s close enough to giving the illusion this is an Imperial system. But I’m also aware that it can be left bare. I’m sort of concerned that the amount of detail might extend the printing time. But then the detail might be too minute to worry about.
I’m also not sure whether to produce a variant showing more space directly behind the front projection. I will have a clearer idea once I’ve printed a test piece tomorrow if a variant is a viable option.
A view of the rear which is shown flat but it can be extended outward. The tube with the console-style display is my idea of a reinforced area sensor or CCTV monitoring system, or display console for any gun emplacement.
New Modelling Diary for 2017
2 February 2017
Finished twenty-four stands of Early Soviets and two Austin Mk III armoured cars. The former are necessary while the latter will be added to the other vehicles that will be associated with the period. All that’s required is an armoured train, some more cavalry, and I’m sort of done for a while with painting and assembling. I wouldn’t say no to a river gunboat but I’m not sure if anyone makes them in 1/72 scale. May have to scratch build it if I don’t have any success locating them.
I’m unsure whether or not to use the armoured cars in the upcoming first game. Second thought is to use it in the next scenario.
30 January 2017
Finished the quick colour scheme of these Renault FT17s. The model is so easy to assemble with just six pieces – three for the hull and tracks and three for the turret. Best build thus far for a long while. The optional turrets are awesome; it allows me to field all as either MGs or little cannons.
Gone with two distinct colour schemes – one side is green and the other is grey (metal). Painted the tread in Vallejo Terracotta. Going to run one of the metal colours, thinly dry brushed over, to finish it off. Final touch with some highlighting, and she’s done.
For my medieval gaming, I did some stake in the ground terrain pieces using the cast-off sprues — the round ones, of course. Lengths of stakes protruding from the ground are variable. I’ve superglued them to a piece of balsa. This, in turn, is glued to a piece of irregular shaped card to as a counter balance. Then dolloped PVA glue towards the back end with fine sand.
I’ve used Vallejo Terracotta for the trunk colour on most of them while some still in their primer coating. Tips were painted using Vallejo Pale Flesh to show they’ve been freshly cut. Mottled ground colouring with some foliage to be added tonight. While I went with fine sand because it’s the only thing hand, it’s just too fine, so I’m going to have to look round for some larger granules.
One of the Lion Rampant retinues is done as far as assembling goes. Still some fine-tuning with the painting on some of the knights and few foot who seem to have a colour identity crises.
23 January 2017
Some more work on painting – just to get back in the swing of things. Really wanting to post better pictures of what’s been done thus far.
Her head snapped off tonight. I had placed in her my pocket and somehow forgot she was there. It’s given me an excuse to change the pose of the head to a slight tilt to the left, as if sizing up her next victim. Re-blued the hair using Blue Ink, then went over again with a light blue. I will extend the skin tone down to her monster feet (boy, are they big and in need of a good nail trim!). Once done, I can concentrate on the rest of the figure. Added plain sand and flock. Still like the old West feel of this figure. From what I’ve been reading, the Wild West was a very naughty time.
A really clearer view of the Eldar Warlock. He reminds me of a flower, probably because of pastel look, so I’m calling him Mr. Daisy. But I really like what I’ve done in terms of painting the model. It’s colourful but not overly sordid, as you sometimes see with the Eldar. It’s distinctive without being too gaudy and yet quite natural in that it will blend into any scenery. Tonight I just lightened the sword using White first then Ghost Grey. I used Bone on the wraithbone emblem. I then touched up the light blue where required. I’m happy with it as a gaming model but as something for display, and a challenge to me as a model painter, there is probably more I can do. Have to wait and see what.
This is an old unpainted project from several years back. He’s Coach Rico, Inquisitor and Head Coach of the Molokai Honeys, an all-nun Blood Bowl team. It’s from a local sculptor (a veteran modeller and sculptor whose first name is Victoria. She operates out of South Australia but is globally well known. I loved this the instant I saw it. The look on the figure’s face and the pose hooked me. He is part of a group of four I bought. At the time, I got as far basecoating it Gory Red and applying Black Wash. Since then, it’s been sitting ignored until a few days ago. Tonight, all I’ve done is try to see which wash works on the face. And then I’ve added a highlight of Ghost Grey and Light Blue. Dry brushed, of course. I will mute the highlighting with wash again before applying softer tones of the clergy’s attire.
This chap is part of Coach Rico’s team. Because of the flight cap and goggles, he’s known as Captain Biggles. Wonderful facial expression. And that moustache is superb. Great figure.
The Yeti monster belonging to the Dragon Tong company from the In Her Majesty’s Name game. Another neglected mini that got a bit of TLC tonight. I redid the blue skin tone: tried to make the blue skin more blended and with depth. It’s early days so what you see here won’t necessarily be the end-product. At least that’s the plan.
I’m a big fan of letting the light provide depth and detail on a figure. As these photos hopefully have shown, when the light is right, the detail on the model, especially around the face, can really enhance the viewing pleasure. Or so I can convince myself. Until next post. Cheers.
21 January 2017
Spent the afternoon catching up on some painting of minis, mainly facial tones. SYW, Cossacks, Templar knights, Inquisition, WW1 figures (Germans, British, Americans), Warhammer harpies. Going to have to invest in a decent digital camera. My mobile and tablet have both let me down lately, failing to produce decent photos. It can be frustrating when comparing what is photographed and what is seen in person.
Wanted to make this harpy from GW as humanly as possible. I started with Vallejo Bronze Flesh and lightened the tone with Ghost Grey in successive light tones until it was Ghost Grey with a dab of Bronze Flesh tone. The corset was basecoated in Royal Purple. Then I used Lichen Purple to fill the inner, not being too concerned about being neat. I used Ghost Grey as an initial highlight before going over the inner area this time with Warlock Purple. The trim on the corset was first basecoated with Ghost Grey before applying a Brass coating.
The figure had already been primed with Black. Magic Blue was chosen for the hair basecoating. Light Blue mixed with Magic Blue was then applied in streaks starting from the centre moving out. Then I carefully added Light Blue to provide some more depth in the highlighting. The final highlighting was Ghost Grey mixed with the Light Blue lightly brushed from the centre out.
She is very much reminiscent of the Wild West saloon girls. Which might be a nice theme for the rest of the group.
16 January 2017
Change in work schedule meant an opportunity to start on some painting, an itch that’s been in need of scratching for some time now but which I was reluctant to do so because of the heat these past few days. Anyway, tonight I was able to make a start by priming a few minis and start painting up others.
Opened up one of the WW1 German infantry boxes by Zvezda and primed those as well as the Teutonic Knights (Esci). Especially excited about these medieval figures because it allows me to expand my narrative in Lion Rampant to now include these fanatics from the Baltic/East European region. Using Vallejo paints (the 72 colours case I bought several years back has repaid itself many times over, even if some of the colours need a fair amount of agitation to get them flowing properly), I began painting the “white” elements of the Teutonic Order kit. I also started painting the 4 HaT German medium artillery guns and crews that were already primed. The Cossack mounts for Red Actions also received some colour.
Any excess paint was used upon the mountain of existing minis that are in varying stages of painting completion. One lucky recipient were some Austro-Hungarians for DBN sitting on my crowded workbench. These are 20mm figures. Their white uniforms were looking very heavily washed over so I spruced them up with leftover Ghost Grey. That grey was also spread onto my 6mm SYW minis.
I even touched up one of the Eldar Warlocks I had basecoated some time last year and which was patiently and quietly sitting on one of the cluttered shelves atop my workbench. Somehow, dabbling with it led to spending a bit more time and effort on it so that it now looks like this:
The muted colour scheme seems to suit the figure; the wraithbone contrast really works with the colour combination of Cayman Green for the basecoated figure. The entire figure was done this way which probably explains why I left it like that last year and moved onto something less complicated to deal with! While experiencing difficulty applying the wraithbone an idea to mute it somehow against the basecoating led to using a watered down wash of mid-blue on the inner garment.
Sadly the photos above do not do the figure any favours in depicting the real colours. Even though it does look okay here, the contrast is more pronounced in real-life. Plus you can see the influence of the mid-blue of the inner garment against the green. Right now, it’s only started. I expect I will apply several layers of this watered-down mid blue followed by Ghost Grey dry brushing. I tried to pronounce the contrast with a bit of a black wash. The outer coat also received a wash of Cayman Green (probably a fifty-fifty mix of water and colour).
Gems will probably be topaz and amethyst in colour; that’s the plan. The wraithbone needs a bit more bone in it while the accroutements and weaponry should prove to entertaining to complete. Hope to post finished pictures some time soon. Cheers.